This part is all about covering Sikkim and the ride we did throughout has most certainly been intense, adventurous and gratifying.
The most important part of the entire road trip to Sikkim is covered as much as possible. Too many details jotted down and way too many pictures were taken along the way, making it difficult to sort and put them together. Finally done with here.
Siliguri
Day 08 : 28 Apr 2017
Rest day for us. Deepak and Lokesh drive up to Gangtok in the morning to get permits for the Xylo that we drove up in. We later head to the GATI KWE office here in Siliguri to take delivery of our bikes that were sent packed and transported from Blr a week back.
The plan was to ride up to Darjeeling the next day, while the Xylo gets its permit from the Road transport office at Gangtok and then meet us back at Darjeeling the following day. We take the Toa Toa, the local electric auto rickshaw to get to GATI office situated at Fulwari, to take delivery of our bikes at 10:30am. Vivek took his bike to DSK Benelli showroom/service center to get this bike indicator fixed, while Kiran and I headed to Sevoke road to the KTM showroom to get my Duke’s front fork seal oil leak fixed. The KTM service mechanic Amal by name was very helpful and did a splendid job on the bike.
Meanwhile, friends Deepak and Lokesh who were driving to Gangtok, had a unforeseen stop wherein a tree had fallen onto the road. Clearing it from the road had them waiting for an hour or so. By 2pm my bike was all done and ready. Met a fellow biker from Calcutta belonging to Bong Riders Group who had been there to pick up his brand new Bajaj Dominor motorcycle (in grape color). Congrats and best wishes to him on his new bike. We then headed to a tyre shop close by to check Kiran’s bike rear tyre that had an air leak. Got that fixed by about 2:40pm. We got back to the hotel, freshened up, a quick lunch and relaxed the rest of the day.
Siliguri – Darjeeling
Day 09 : 29 Apr 2017
A lazy morning of the rest while I sat up writing up notes of the trip so far, getting just about 4hours of sleep. By 10am, Vish landed at Siliguri and got to the hotel. We got packing, had our lunch and started out by about 2pm. A happy happy feeling to be back on the bike after a week. Seemed like a month. Vivek sat pillion on my bike. We got to Darjeeling by about 5pm with a few chai/tea stops and photo taking stops on route. Got to the hotel of stay by late evening and relaxed.
Meanwhile, Deepak and Lokesh who had driven upto Gangtok conveyed to us over the phone that getting permits for personal owned/driven non-Sikkim registered 4-wheelers to travel further up into Sikkim is not possible and that’s confirmed. Hiring a local vehicle was the only way out.
Distance traveled : 70km
Darjeeling – Gangtok
Day 10 : 30 Apr 2017
At 6700ft high, Darjeeling was just a little cold and foggy past 8:30pm, by which time all activity closes and people here retire to their cozy homes. With the stop over here, we started out for Gangtok at 8:30am. Got to the Sikkim border by 11:10am. Stopped at at Hotel 16th Mile at Jorethong for a short tea break. Passed through Kitam Bird Sanctuary and got till the road diversion leading into Milli. A sharp right here and 56km to Gangtok. Roads until here were extremely bad with only small patches of clean tarred roads. It was 1:35pm by now. we took pictures here and then rode into the small town Milli for lunch. A quiet and clean little town. Ride on through a very scenic route via Kerabari, Sadam. Stopped at Bhanjyang for a chai/tea spot at Hotel Kanchandzonga at 5:30pm. From here two routes to Gangtok and its 71km from here. Route one via Pabong, another via Rangpo. Both routes join back at Singtam.
On route, roads were not all that good with bad stretches at many places. No lights on certain stretches of road. Was little spooky and fun at the same time. There was several large flashes of light in the sky hinting strong chances of heavy rain. Had put on my rain gear to both protect against rain and to also act as a wind cheater. By the time we got to Singham, we were riding through heavy rainfall. Stopped at a fuel station as the Triumph Tiger was thirsty and then we continued in the rain. As we entered the town of Gangtok, I noticed signboards by the side of the road and at several places along the way too – ‘Honking is banned’ or ‘Honking is prohibited’. Had seen these signboards as we entered Sikkim. And true to the signboards, there was actually no honking anywhere to be heard. It was such a personal delight. Felt like I was at home. We reached the hotel of stay by 8:40pm. KTM showroom in close proximity. Cool huh! A Xylo cab along with driver was hired for the next couple of days, for those amongst us not riding a 2 wheeler. Simple yet tasty dinner by 10pm and off to bed.
A long unplanned ride from Darjeeling to Gangtok, Sikkim. Some tough terrains and uninhabited locations. A supposed five hour journey took us almost 12 hours. We rode through the cold breeze at Darjeeling, a hot sunny afternoon at Turkvar tea estate, the clouds at Namchi and rain at Rangpo at nightfall. Today’s ride has certainly been intense, adventurous and gratifying.
Distance traveled : 121km
Gangtok – Lachung
Day 11 : 01 May 2017
‘Trees are poems that earth writes upon the sky’ stated a sign board by the side of the road, somewhere on route. Lovely smooth roads up and down the hills till we reach the check post at Kabi, North Sikkim at 11:45 am. From here on, bad roads, certain stretches were slushy. Although, road construction is on going, so will be good when all done. At noon, we did a quick chai stop at Phensong hotel. From here 1.5hrs to next check post at Toong.
Bad roads for the most part with only few small stretches of clean tarred roads. Got to Tong checkpost by 4:50pm. Went ahead and at Lachung, at 6:30pm stopped at a fork on the not knowing which one to take and so waited for the rest. We took an hour or so finding the hotel, which strangely was known by a slightly different name. Adding to the darkness of the night, Vish and Vageesh had lost their way. Meanwhile, Kiran and I were waiting at a roadside stall having hot tea. Finally the lost two found their way. We got to the hotel and had dinner. Later, sleep was rather instantaneous.
Lachung – Zero Point – Lachen
Day 12 : 02 May 2017
We were up by 5:30am. Freshened up and breakfast at 7:30am. Started by about 9am. Tarred roads with bad no stretches along the way. As we neared the Yumthang, there were trees covered with snow on top and they looked like Christmas trees. Several signboards by the roadside that kept repeating at several intervals was ‘Do not cut/pluck plants and flowers’.
Reached zero point at 11:15am. Altitude was 15860 ft above sea level and temperature was nearing 10 degrees centigrade. Had coffee here. And rode back down to Lachung to reach by 2:45pm and have tea by the roadside stall. After having lunch (noodles and boiled eggs), we started for Lachen. Reached Lachen by 8pm. Sign board on route stated – ‘Bottled water is banned. Alternative options will be provided‘. Another half hour searching for a hotel, finally found one.
Lachen – Gurudongmar lake – Lachen
Day 13 : 03 May 2017
We quickly got ready, drank tea, had breakfast packed and started out by 7:30am. Kiran chose not to ride today as his bike wasnt up for it and so he joined Deepak, Lokesh and Vivek in the hired Xylo 4-wheeler. It was bad roads all the way. From here and further on belong to military which are aplenty, and so signboards stating ‘NO photography’ are noted. Vish and I got to the military checkpost at 9am and waited for the rest. Met a few soldiers stationed there. From here it was 14km to the lake and neatly tarred road. A short uphill climb on muddy stretch to reach the lake by 10:30am. Spent some time there taking pictures and returned back. Stopped for a while at the military check post. Spoke to few other bikers who were there too. Had pakodas and coffee at the military canteen. Vish and I went ahead and got back to the hotel by 4pm and again had to wait for the others. And they turned up 50 mins later. Pakodas and biscuits with tea for snacks. We freshen up, dinner and off to bed by 10pm.
Lachen – Gangtok
Day 14 : 04 May 2017
Up by 7am. Filled up a few litres of petrol just enough to get us till Mangan (only place to tank up and take extra fuel from). We start by 9:45am. Bad roads to Banoi. Starts to drizzle. Cross two bridges and then the roads are better till Chunthang. A U turn here to be taken. Then after a small stretch of bad patch, road gets better. Along the route a tunnel is being built to cut short distance. Reached the check post at Toong by 11:30am. By noon, it starts to rain. From here, it’s 20km to Mangan and reached there at 1pm. Fueled up my bike.
From here to Gangtok is 50 km. Had lunch. Later on route, we stopped at the same tea stall by the road for chai close to Kabi called Top Tailor. Continued on again and it’s still raining. Reached the hotel by 6pm. For tomorrow, Nathula pass route was closed due to snow/landslide, so we wouldn’t get permit to go through. Had to either go up to Tsongmo lake and come back to Gangtok. Few amongst us chose not to do it. Those who chose to go ahead and do it were Vivek on the Triumph Tiger, Vageesh on his Aprilia SR150 and me on my Duke 390. Had dinner and off to bed.
Distance traveled : 110km
Gangtok – Tsongmo Lake – Gangtok
Day 15 : 05 May 2017
Had to start by 7:30am. Upto Nathula is 56km. Got to know due to landslide and snow, Nathula now is also closed and permits would be given only upto Tsongmo Lake which is 44km from our hotel in Gangtok. No privately owned non-Sikkim vehicles allowed so my friend Deepak also dropped out. So it was just us 3 on bikes and we start by 8:30am. Got to the 3rd mile check post and submitted the permit. Roads were very good but for 2 sections of very bad patches. Steep climb through military presence. No photography along the way. Tea-snack points are present at two places along the route. No smoking beyond 2nd section. Submit the permit copy at 15th mile check post where the tourist facilitation center is present. Got to Chhangu where the lake is located by 10am. Spent some time there taking pictures and rode back down to reach the hotel by 2:15pm. Had lunch. Each of us had different things to do until evening. By around 6pm, we took a taxi to MG Marg to check out the city’s night life and have dinner. Everything shuts down by 8:30pm. Took dinner parcel and got back to the hotel by about 9:30pm.
Gangtok – Siliguri
Day 16 : 06 May 2017
The preparation of the return leg begins. Vish, Vivek, Lokesh and Kiran were to take a flight out from Siliguri during the second half of the day. Deepak, Vageesh and I could have skipped Siliguri and headed further onto Malda but didn’t as there was already a hotel reservation done at Siliguri for tonight. So why waste it and so we all headed there. Started at 7:30am. Good clean tarred roads with a few bridges to ride through. Saw a no. of bullets bikers from WB on the way. RE Bullets with fancy fog lamps and going dugu dugu. Baah! Those noisy tractors on two wheels.
All good clean tarred roads but for a few small stretches of uneven patches. Stopped for Chai break at 9:35am, little after Rambi along the Teesta river and Birik forest. Reached hotel at Siliguri by 10:50am. Dropped the Triumph Tiger and Yamaha FZ to the GATI office, then checked into a hotel. We dropped Vish, Vivek and Kiran to the airport, got back and ordered pizzas for the 3 of us. Sleep/rest for a couple of hours until dinner. We go to a restaurant closeby. Average food. Waste of money. Back to hotel and sleep.
